I’ve always had a love/hate relationship with corsetry. I fell in love with Sparklewren and Morgana Femme Couture when I was fifteen and dreamt of the elegant, feminine, powerful silhouettes.

But when I got my first Isabella Corsetry underbust at 17 my hipbones ached and it pinched my ribs and everything just hurt. A corset made to my measurements (but not fitted on me) was no better.

The problem? This.

I’m 100% mesomorph body type. Even after two years on an exercise ban my core is like a rock and so clinching goes nowhere. My ribcage is very square and in-compressible.

I’m sure there were women with my body type 110 years ago but I have no idea what they did to live with corsets.

Victorian conical torsos are the worst…. my gorgeous custom Morgana Femme Couture included… but I’m on a hunt to find something that works for me. And for that I need to learn to make corsets.

I’m starting with an Edwardian s-curve in the hope it’ll work better with my gigundus rib cage. Atelier Sylphe sells patterns drafted from her antique corset collection and there was a s-bend corset in my size!  No resizing, thank god.

The scariest part of corsetry is the accuracy. I traced the pattern VERY carefully on my coutil and I’m sewing the first half of the felled seams by hand and then topstitching on my machine for neatness.

Since this is a single layer corset I’m just sewing bone casings on the inside and sliding bones in. I’m debating synthetic whalebone vs spiral steels as I’ve heard whalebone is more comfortable.

So far, so good!

This pattern is so clever, I love it. It’s also super curvy, unlike some corset patterns (cough LAUGHING MOON cough). Even with just three pieces attached it won’t lay flat!

Sadly I have nothing to wear this with so it’s lower priority than, oh, three or four other sewing projects, two knitting ones and three spinning…. But it is a more exciting adventure!

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